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by Beverly Bach
Tekley dashed into his house, dropping his
schoolbooks on the table. He grabbed his lunch — two
short sticks of sugar cane — before rushing out the
door.
He couldn’t be late. School fees were due in two days.
Tekley had been carefully saving his tips for months,
but he still needed four Birr — $3.50 in American
money.
His bare feet kicked up dust as he ran down the steep
street into the town of Lalibela. He was proud to live
here, high in the rugged mountains of Ethiopia. He
knew it was an important place, because ferengi
(tourists) came from all over to see the cathedrals.
As he scurried down the path, Tekley could see the
tops of four of the 11 cathedrals. The structures carved
deep into the volcanic rock were the only ones like
them in the world.
Shoe Shine
Tekley raced across the bridge over the Jordan River,
which flowed through the middle of town. He looked
down on the enormous cross-shaped roof of St. George
Cathedral — his cathedral. Every day he worked as a
shoe keeper at St. George. Although it wasn’t the
biggest cathedral, it was by far the most beautiful.
Tekley rushed down the narrow stairs that were carved
into a wall of rust-colored stone facing the cathedral. He
dashed around to the front door where he spotted
Nahmen, the oldest shoe keeper. The white-haired
man sat in the sun on a stone ledge.
“Mr. Nahmen,” Tekley greeted, “I thought I might be
here first today.”
“Ah, yes,” Nahmen smiled. “Well, it takes me awhile to
get here, so I start early. These old eyes are growing
dim; I have to feel my way with my stick. And the legs
don’t move as fast as they used to.”
Tekley felt sorry for the old man and wondered how
much longer he would be a shoe keeper. Tekley knew
Mr. Nahmen’s son had died, leaving four grandchildren
to care for. The old man needed this job to provide for
his family.
Tekley peered inside the cathedral and breathed in the
sweet aroma of burning incense. When his eyes
adjusted to the darkness, he saw the priest standing tall
behind the low altar, where several candles glowed in
the darkness. A bright blue cape draped his long, white
robe, and a loosely wound white turban covered his
head. In one hand he held a staff topped with a large
bronze cross, and in the other he gripped a worn Bible.
Tekley knew the book was copied by hand in the
squiggle characters of the ancient Ge’ez language.
In the dim light, Tekley could make out huge columns
and walls covered with brightly painted scenes from the
Bible — including his favorite of Jesus talking with the
children.
He turned from the cathedral and joined Nahmen on
the stone ledge. They watched as the first group of
tourists slowly made their way down the narrow steps.
Tekley smiled when he saw the large group. As the
youngest shoe keeper, he would be last in line to keep
a tourist’s shoes.
Misstep
“We ask you to remove your shoes while in the
cathedral,” the guide said as the crowd approached.
“Your shoes will be safe. When you get to the other
side, one of the shoe keepers will have them waiting for
you.”
The tourists slipped off their shoes. Tekley took a pair of
shoes belonging to a tall man with a very pale face and
reddish-brown hair. The shoes were new and looked
expensive.
As the crowd prepared to enter the cathedral, a boy
about Tekley’s age, turned to him. “Do you speak
English?” he asked.
“Yes, a little,” Tekley answered. “We learn in school.”
Tekley set down the shoes. It wasn’t polite to hold
shoes while talking to a ferengi.
“These cathedrals — why were they carved down in the
rock like this?” the boy asked.
“Your guide will tell you more about the buildings,”
Tekley said. “More than 800 years ago, Christians were
being attacked all across North Africa. The churches
were built into the rock, so they could not be seen by
the enemy.”
The boy glanced toward the cathedral.
“I’d better hurry,” he said. “My parents will wonder
where I am.” He followed the last of the tourists as they
disappeared inside.
Tekley stooped down and picked up the shoes. He
stared at the pair in his hands. Black with laces.
These aren’t the right shoes, he thought.
Mine were brown. He looked around frantically. All
the other shoes and shoe keepers were already gone.<
P>
One of the other shoe keepers must have taken my
shoes by accident, Tekley thought. Tekley knew
such a mistake could cost him his job.
“Jesus,” he prayed, “I need Your help. I must find the
right shoes. Please, please help me.”
Tekley needed this job to pay for school. It had been
difficult to become a shoe keeper. He had worked hard
to be on time every day, and he never keep a tourist
waiting. He couldn’t fail now. He had to find the right
shoes before his tourist came out of the exit door.
Soul Search
Tekley darted along the narrow passage between the
high walls of the cathedral and the rock face. He knew
the path well and could almost run it with his eyes
closed.
As Tekley rounded the corner, some tourists were
already making their way up the narrow stairs. Others
were putting on their shoes. Tekley frantically looked
from one pair of shoes to the next. None of them were
“his” shoes.
Tekley’s eyes fell on Nahmen, sitting by the door. In his
hands Nahmen held brown shoes — his brown
shoes. Tekley hurried over to him.
“Excuse me, Mr. Nahmen,” Tekley said. “Somehow our
shoes have gotten switched. My ferengi had
brown shoes, and these are black.”
Nahmen looked down at the shoes, trying hard to focus.
He handed the shoes to Tekley just as the owner
stepped into the bright sunlight.
“Here are your shoes, Sir,” Tekley said, handing them
to the man. Before he could back away, the man placed
a pile of coins in his hand. Tekley could not believe his
eyes. Four birr!
“Ame ssagga nalehugn!” Tekley said excitedly in
Amharic. Quickly he changed to English, “Thank you
very much, Sir.”
He looked down at the coins. It was exactly the amount
he needed to cover his school fees next term. Jesus,
thank You for answering my prayer!
Perfect Pair
Tekley turned to old Nahmen. The man leaned on his
walking stick, struggling to get up. Tekley helped him.
Together they walked back to the cathedral entrance.
Tekley held out his coins.
“Look at the tip my ferengi gave me. It’s the
biggest I’ve ever gotten! Now I have enough to pay my
school fees.” He paused and said, “What did your
ferengi give you?”
Nahmen reached into his pocket and pulled out a
single birr.
Tekley felt bad for asking. The two walked in silence.
I wish I could help Mr. Nahmen, he thought.
Suddenly Tekley had an idea.
“Mr. Nahmen,” he said, “when the next ferengi
come, why don’t we work together? I have sharp eyes. I
can help you.”
Old Nahmen smiled. He touched Tekley on the
shoulder.
“That’s a fine idea,” he said. “I can show you everything
I’ve learned about being a good shoe keeper. We’ll use
your eyes and my knowledge.”
That evening as he headed for home, Tekley felt warm.
Thank You, Jesus, he prayed, for helping me
find the right shoes and providing for school. And thank
You for a friend like Mr. Nahmen.
Stone Wonders
In the late 1100s, Ethiopia’s King Lalibela ordered
stone cathedrals to be carved into volcanic rock where
they would not be seen from a distance. The 11
cathedrals are monolithic, which means they are
carved out of a single block of stone.
Narrow passages below the city connect the
cathedrals. Some are square or rectangular; others are
shaped like crosses. Their windows are open holes,
carved in the beautiful patterns of leaves and crosses.
Four cathedrals have a courtyard all the way around
them, including the tallest, St. George, which towers
over 40 feet high. Inside the cathedrals, tall pillars of
stone rise to the ceiling, and decorative scrolls, crosses
and flowers are carved into the stone.
On special occasions such as Genna
(Christmas) and Timket (Easter), thousands of
people come from near and far to worship.
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